Two weeks ago, I was let into Guangzhou (Canton, for the rest of us) airport for some twelve hours. As there didn't seem to be a bar, we went to the nearest coffee place. That's usually a safe plan B. I squinted at the menu-boards up on the wall.

"How much is the Yuan to the Dollar again?" I asked the lady who came to welcome me.

"Six yuan, one dollar." She said. I tried to do the maths but it didn't make any sense. I couldn't blame the jetlag, either; I'd only been two hours on a plane.

"Wait that makes each coffee-"

"Twelve to fourteen dollars," she kindly offered.

I did that rising whistle thing that people do when they're impressed. "Welcome to China!"

She pointed a finger at me, accusing, disgusted. "What is that?"

I looked down. I still had the little round TIBET WILL BE FREE badge pinned to my jacket.

"You know what that is," I said.