Monday, 4 March 2013

Tarragona, Day Three

Spanish Sunday ghost town. The bells toll clear across these empty streets - only ghosts and stray cats are out tonight and me.

Saturday, 2 March 2013

Tarragona, Day One

I have been warned against the local waters. It is said that by drinking them the locals become crazy and by showering in them they lose all their hair. No es bueno. I have not decided if I should feel scared or right at home.

Thursday, 28 February 2013

 (typo t-shirt, SixPack Artists)

”Come,” said the Lord again, “I will make a covenant between me and you. I, I will not measure you out any more distress than you need to write your books.”’
Isak Dinesen, in The Young Man with the Carnation

Monday, 25 February 2013

The three of us stuck in that long, long, southbound train - could we have been more different? Not easily.

Rodrigão, always silent, who knew the capital of Samoa and the typical dish of the Ukraine and which explorers had attempted the northwestern passage. He is a veritable gentle giant - even if he was very tempted to slap the little girl in pink still. Pipa, hiding from the plebs behind purple sunglasses. She was still not sure why we weren't flying to Lisbon instead - it was so fast and easy, and there's always bubbly in first class. And yours trully, of course. I spent four hours trying to figure out what I had left at home this time.

Rodrigo: The three of us, travelling, we could make a reality show.
Pipa: It would be so great. The Brains, the Diva and the Idiot.
YT: Wait a minute. Which of us would be the idiot?

Sunday, 20 January 2013

Bootham Park Hospital

My recent trip to York was marked by two images - or scenes, if you will - that I can not forget.

The fist I saw at night looking through a large bay window. I had just arrived on a cross-country train.  I was walking around with my bags and my books and nowhere to stay, looking for a place.  The street was deserted and the only light I could see was spilling from that one window. Inside, an elderly man with long, white hair, thin as cobwebs, sat with his back being waited on by a not-so-elderly woman. The walls were incredibly, impossibly, tall and they had been completely covered in a crazy jigsaw puzzle of paintings and old photographs, with elaborate, gilded frames.

The second I saw walking to the library from the inn where I'd spent the night. The sun was only starting to rise, everything had that fresh, bright light of Winter mornings and there was a long lawn by the roadside. The dew on the grass had frozen overnight. It looked almost blue: much bluer in fact, than the sky, which was still a sort of pastel tangerine. At the far, far end of these gardens was a large brick building. Very English. Very old.

A parking sign near me indicated it was a hospital. I almost couldn't believe it. I can't quite remember what I said to myself.

"If I ever get really sick, I hope they send me just there," I think was it. Or maybe it was "I have to convince someone to put me in there for a while." Something along those lines.

I described the place to James later; a friend, York local and our guide to the city's churches and high-street shops.

"Bootham hospital? It's a mental institution," he said. "An old asylum."

I really ought to have seen that one coming, I suppose.

(-One flew East, one flew West, one flew over the Cuckoo's nest...)

Tuesday, 15 January 2013

His face, full of folds and fat, like a friendly badger's is on my shoulder. Behind those round spectacles and his short-sighted eyes, he needs to get really close to see what he's doing with that razor-blade. Really close. His metre-long paunch pushes my arm out of its hold and I have nowhere else to put it.

Maybe he used to smoke, or his lungs are going out, or his shirt's too tight, but I can hear his heavy breathing and it isn't the least bit healthy. It wheezes in and grunts out, wheezes in and grunts out. Right in my ear.

Wheeze in.

Grunt out.

Through the mirrors on the walls, I can see his assistant, a dear old lady, and she sits in the corner with her knees touching each other, her hands folded neatly over her lap and under a nice shawl. She's usually very quiet. She's very quiet today. Maybe it's the weather.

He's quiet today, except for his breathing.  Everybody's too quiet, and his breathing is too loud, and it's right in my ear.

Wheeze in.

Grunt out.

"And how are things over here?" I ask when he turns round to wipe the blade on a towel.

"Well, you know how it is," he says, talking at the mirror. "Everything's pretty much the same. We're all fighting to hold on in this wonderful country of ours. Doing what we can. The usual, really."

It had struck me once before that nothing really ever changes over here. The way I see it, it is Portugal's main virtue, and Portugal's main flaw.

----

(-Songs About Shaving)

Wednesday, 2 January 2013

There are about three reasons why this year is certainly going to be better than the last. You are two of them.